La Guajira Route
This trail is an invitation to consider the importance of dreams for life. We often do not record our dreams. We might even forget them. We definitely do not take the time to let ourselves discover their deeper meanings. However, they are the essence of Wayúu cosmogony. They are where thoughts are woven. They are later portrayed on the textiles made by skilled craftswomen and all their descendants. Each of them gives us clues about their environment, daily life, weather, and emotional state with every one of their stitches. “A craft is not just a craft,” they would say. They know, for instance, that a chinchorro hammock accompanies a Wayúu person from the day they are born until the day they die. In each stage of life, they will have a different one: the first one will shelter, rock, and wrap them; the next one they will share, and procreate and rest in; the final one will be with them during death and their journey to the other side. Weaving is so important to this culture that they confine their girls as soon as they reach puberty to teach them the thousand secrets of the loom. In this way, they learn the responsibilities that come from becoming a woman. This journey through La Guajira —from Riohacha to Cabo de la Vela and Nazareth, in the Alta Guajira region— will allow you to see their daily life in the rancherías, both inland and on the savannah. You will also experiment how different life feels by the sea. You will discover how powerful women assume the leadership roles in their communities. These people have cultivated the gift of language and poetry. This will be an exceptional and magical experience.
Embark on a journey full of history
Artisans along the way
Artisans along the way
We recommended this tour
Recommendations
Schedule the visit in advance with the artisans.
Carry cash.
Carry hydration.
Llevar snaks.
Preferably go with the tour operator.
Avoid going during the rainy season (September to December approx.) because transportation is difficult.
Length
8 days
Physical Complexity
Transportation
Jeep or 4x4
Riohacha on the road to Valledupar
An hour and a half away from Bogotá by plane, to visit Riohacha is to walk along its pier at sunset; this natural spectacle is the best way to welcome you into this trip: a beautiful display of the regions’ color palette. You can take a taxi from the city to the Ranchería Iwoúyaa at Kilometer 17 on the road to Valledupar. There, the heirs of master craftswoman Cecilia Acosta await visitors. They will offer every newcomer a warm welcome into the Wayúu world. You will be able to enjoy a typical afternoon in a ranchería: you will be delighted with their dances and the Wayúu women’s weaving mastery. You will also get to taste their traditional food. When the night falls, you can sleep in a Wayúu chinchorro hammock under the starry sky of La Guajira. Set aside two days of your trip for this point. The first one you will spend getting to know the ranchería and sleeping there (it is not advisable to take the road after 5 pm), and the next one to go to the Flamingo Fauna and Flora Sanctuary and spend the day there. It is enough to travel 15 minutes by car from the south of the city to visit the Sanctuary where these majestic birds can be found. It is very much worth it.
To Uribia and Manaure
Our next destination is Uribia, 97,5 kilometers away from the capital. We suggest you leave early. On this part of the journey, you will head north for about an hour away on the Troncal Caribe or the 4-way highway and in the direction of the road that leads to Uribia, at km 53, you will find Ranchería Aluatachón. Master craftswoman Carmen Palmar will receive you as your host. She will talk to you in a mix of Spanish and Wayuunaiki. At first, she will share her creations with her visitors. Then, you will be delighted with the dance of the Yonna, a tradition of her people. You can share a traditional goat dish for lunch, accompanied by rice with beans from the region, and wash it down with a refreshing glass of chicha (fermented corn drink). Another hour’s drive following this route and you will arrive in the city of Uribia, the indigenous capital of Colombia, where master craftswoman Conchita Iguarán generously receives travelers in the shade of her house. There, you will see different weavings and learn about their history and the value they have for their culture. From here, you have two choices: you can either go to Manaure (21,5 km) or continue your journey towards El Cabo de la Vela (70 km). If you choose the former, you can visit María Cristina Gómez, who is supports many of the region’s craftswomen with her association. When you get there, you will be just 30 minutes away from the Salt Flats of Manaure: an almost lunar landscape with a penetrating smell in the middle of the desert. These attributes make this a unique place worth visiting. This is where 70% of the salt consumed in Colombia comes from. Give one day of your trip to this place if you decide to follow this path. If you choose the second option, a two-hour journey towards the sea awaits you. At the Cabo de La Vela you can easily stay overnight.
Cabo de La Vela or Nazareth
Here, you will choose what you want to do next. There is a choice between two different roads that both depart from Uribia. Let’s take it step by step. The first path is towards Cabo de la Vela and you arrive from Riohacha (164 km), along the Troncal del Caribe road, passing through Uribia. If you start in Riohacha, it will be a three-hour journey. If you start in Uribia, you will save an hour. Cabo de la Vela is a seaside paradise and has an abundant touristic offer. We recommend visiting Conchita Ospina. She will introduce you to the Wayúu world, inspired by the colors of the sea. She also has accommodations 15 minutes away from the town. They are, in her own words, perfect for all creative bohemian spirits. There is also a beautiful beach at the Pilón de Azúcar mountain. It gets its name from the small sugar hill that borders the sea. You can stay that day at the Cabo de La Vela and get up early for Nazareth. If you do this plan keep in mind that it requires an adventurous spirit to which you must allocate at least three days, taking into account that two of them are traveling and the other meeting the artisan and ecotourism. Be careful! During the rainy season it is not recommended to go to Nazareth because the road can become slippery and dangerous, so it is always better to be accompanied by a guide who knows the terrain. You can also travel from Uribia to Nazareth. This trip will take anywhere between six and eight hours along the highway (210 km). This place has earned its name: the oasis of La Guajira. It is in the middle of the Macuira National Park: a unique ecosystem filled with mountains and forests in the middle of the desert. When you travel there, you can visit one of the El Paraíso village’s living legends: María Eudoxia González, better known as Memella. She is one of the masters of Wayúu weaving, and you should definitely try and meet her.
Route acknowledgement
Denominación de Origen
Tejeduría Wayuú, La Guajira
Recommended sites
Important information for your trip
Pueblo Patrimonio
La Red Turística de Pueblos Patrimonio de Colombia es un programa especial del Ministerio de Comercio, Industria y Turismo, ejecutado por FONTUR, que trabaja con 17 municipios de Colombia que poseen declaratoria de Bien de Interés Cultural (BIC) a nivel nacional para su valoración y proyección mediante el turismo, generando así más oportunidades de desarrollo y sostenibilidad en las comunidades.
La Medalla a la Maestría Artesanal es un galardón que Artesanías de Colombia entrega anualmente, con el cual se hace un reconocimiento a aquellos artesanos, empresas y comunidades artesanales que, contando con una trayectoria destacada, sobresalen a nivel nacional por su excelencia en el oficio así como por preservar el quehacer artesanal.
Denominación de Origen
Es un signo distintivo que identifica productos reconocidos o famosos por tener una calidad o características específicas derivadas esencialmente del lugar de origen y la forma tradicional de extracción, elaboración y producción por parte de sus habitantes. La protección conferida sobre una Denominación de Origen implica que ninguna persona puede identificar con la denominación protegida productos iguales o similares a los amparados, cuando no provengan del verdadero lugar y no cumplan con las características o calidades que le han dado la reputación al producto reconocido. Las Denominaciones de Origen para productos artesanales colombianos que han sido protegidas por la Superintendencia de Industria y Comercio en nuestro país son actualmente 12.
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