Caldas is music—pasillo and bambuco—it is the Carnival of the Devil, the Manizales Fair, and its Cathedral. It is the Nevado del Ruiz volcano and mountain landscapes bursting with coffee plantations. It is the birthplace of the famous Aguadas hats, a tradition that dates back more than a century and a half ago, when, for a long period of time, those who made the hats were precisely the men. Since they were stronger, they could tie iraca fibers together very easily, thus making the strong weaving that makes this hat stand out. Nonetheless, the time of the coffee bonanza arrived, and the men who earned their sustenance from this trade went to the bushes to plant and collect coffee. In this way, weaving the hats got left in women’s hands, who, from then on, have held the craft. Now, weavers, finishers, and traders work in tandem to create an entire system of manual production in which every link of the chain complements another. But Caldas is also metalwork, woodcraft, and the delicate beadwork of Embera Chamí women. You will witness all of this in a journey that will take you from the cool mountain air of Manizales to the warmth of Riosucio, as well as the living architectural heritage of Salamina, a wonder that makes part of the Network of Heritage Towns of Colombia, having become one of the best showcases of what Antioquian colonization was during the nineteenth century.
Schedule the visit in advance with the artisans.
Carry cash
6 days
Car or Bus
Start this trip at the department’s capital, known as the “University City.” You can stay several days in Manizales discovering its many treasures, among which you can count the Gold and Art Museums of Caldas, which have fantastic collections of pre-Columbian Quimbaya vestiges and of popular art; as well as the old San Esteban Cemetery. You will also be able to see its rich natural heritage in Los Nevados (The Snow-Capped Mountains) Park; the Ruiz Snow-Capped Mountain, an icon for mountain-climbing; the Branco River Natural Reserve; and the Los Yarumos Ecopark. Of course, since this city is very high-up, almost touching the heavens, the Chipre Viewpoint, the Herveo Tower (better known as the one of the Cable), and the aerial cable trip are a must-see to enjoy the landscape properly. Discover also two master craftspeople, wood turners and metalworkers, and immerse yourself in the traditions that you will continue to discover in this department. And if you come in early January, don’t miss the famous Manizales Fair. End the day by making your way toward Salamina, passing through Neira and Aranzazu, to wake up there the next morning.
38 kilometers away, almost half an hour on the highway, you will discover this beautiful town. It is known as Caldas’s Athens, or Colombia’s City of Light if you go during Holy Week. Seeing its balconies is enough to witness the woodcarving tradition that is preserved here and that has the name of Eliseo Tangarife as one of its masters. You will have the chance of meeting firsthand some of the finest woodworking masters, getting to know the history of the trade, and visiting the San Vicente de Paul Society, where beautiful works are done on the loom in sheep’s wool. Do not miss out on passing by the emblematic Carola House, display of carving mastery, nor do so with the La Balbanera Cemetery. You can also visit the relief murals, made by a master of Guatapé’s baseboards. A must: passing through the Samaria Valley in the town of San Félix, where you will be able to see a landscape of wax palms that is, simply put, monumental. After this unforgettable day, continue on to Aguadas, an hour and a half away, passing through Pácora.
Although the distance that separates Salamina from Aguadas is relatively small —48 kilometers— it is a two-hour ride because the highway is not the best and you must advance slowly. Nevertheless, the sacrifice is worth it because you will arrive at a town that has given the country one of its symbols: the Aguadeño hat, which stands out at the Hat Museum. Its people are nice and charming, and there are a lot of things to do. Visit the Pueblito Paisa, the Monserrate Hill, the Temple of the Immaculate Conception, and the Chiquinquirá Park to give yourself an idea of how the days are spent in this beautiful town, popularly known as the city of fog. Get your coat ready, because it rains a lot here! Do not leave without trying a good bandeja paisa, nor do so without having a taste of the traditional Aguadas sweet: the pionono.
Supía is known as the “Sweet Heart of Colombia,” and you’ll quickly see why. Its panela and traditional sweets, especially the panelitas with corozo fruit filling, are irresistible. The town is crossed by a river and surrounded by Embera Chamí reserves: La Montaña, Escopetera Pirza, Cañamomo Lomaprieta, and San Lorenzo. Here, you’ll have the chance to meet the women of ASOGRUCA, whose creations in beads are stunning examples of cultural continuity. Contact them in advance to coordinate transportation. And if you’re up for a natural escape, head to the Arcón and Pasmi waterfalls. From Supía, you can ride a chiva—a traditional open-sided bus—to Riosucio, for a truly authentic Caldas experience.
As soon as you arrive, you’ll see the giant that presides over the town: the Ingrumá Hill, witness to the birth of the legendary Carnaval de Riosucio, or Devil’s Carnival, celebrated every two years in January, and the Encuentro de la Palabra (Word Festival), held each August. Visit its main square, the churches of San Sebastián and La Candelaria, and the Museum of Art, History, and Traditions. Riosucio overflows with culture, and here, too, you will meet the Embera women whose hands delicately weave exquisite beadwork. Their artistry is the perfect closing note to this journey.


In Caldas kitchens, the paisa tradition is deeply felt, with dishes such as tamales, calentados (leftover rice-based mixes), stews, and sancochos—the list goes on and on. Over the years, this cuisine has evolved: ingredients were fused, new ones introduced, and modern cooking techniques adopted. The result is a juicy, creative, intense, and ancestral gastronomy.
Be sure to look for the highly praised morcilla—a pork blood sausage with spices and onion—at Asadero Onde César, a classic spot located on 9th Street in the Chipre neighborhood of Manizales.
Another must on this sweet-focused route is an oblea in Chipre, a popular neighborhood in Manizales. The perfect plan is to go on a weekend afternoon and take in the spectacular view. If it were up to us, we’d order a tintico (black coffee) to go with it. After all, this is coffee country—make the most of it.

There’s nothing better than warm service and food so good it makes you swoon. The chicharrones and fríjoles con uña (beans cooked with pork trotters) are absolutely delicious and unbeatable. With that in mind, head to Estadero Don Arturo in Riosucio, the same town where the famous Devil’s Carnival is celebrated.
And let’s show some love to the cabbage salad they make in this area—it’s incredibly refreshing.
On the Coffee Highway (Autopista del Café), just a few minutes from Manizales, you’ll find Los Arrieros, a countryside restaurant that charms with its traditional atmosphere and old-school seasoning. Here you can enjoy a generous bandeja paisa, a comforting chicken sancocho, the classic bean casserole, or specialties like mondongo (tripe soup). Hearty portions, music, nature, and paisa hospitality make this place a mandatory stop.

Right there in the Chipre neighborhood of Manizales, you simply can’t miss the mazorca paisa (corn on the cob), arepa de chócolo (sweet corn arepa), and chicharrones (fried pork belly). Anyone in the city will tell you these are the most typical and delicious.
Near the Nevado del Ruiz, it’s very common to eat cheese with agua de panela (unrefined cane sugar drink)—probably because of the cold. In Manizales there’s also a neighborhood called Maltería where you can enjoy the same treat.
If we’re talking empanadas, they deserve an ode. For the real deal, head to La Teja in the Palermo neighborhood of Manizales. They make them with corn dough, filled with shredded beef or papa criolla with ground meat; fried until crispy and best enjoyed with lots of spicy ají sauce.

If there’s one thing people from this region have in common, it’s sweetness—and it comes from the products derived from panela (unrefined cane sugar), mainly produced in Supía and Riosucio.
Mazamorra with arequipe, guarapo, and alfandoques—a candy made from panela or cane molasses, sometimes flavored with anise, cheese, and ginger—are legendary in Supía. Wherever you go, you’ll find places with irresistible traditional recipes. Be sure to try gelatina de pata (cow’s foot gelatin dessert) and parva fina (traditional pastries and breads) in Manizales as well.
Cañas, cuajadas, borrachos, manjar blanco, and rice pudding can be found throughout the region. Have a truly sweet journey!
An old-school plan in Manizales is to go to La Cigarra in the morning to drink coffee, and in the afternoon stop by La Suiza pastry shop. This ritual is not only a deeply rooted tradition among locals but also a way of living the coffee culture to its fullest. In both places you can enjoy regional coffee, renowned for its unique quality and aroma, reflecting the identity of the Coffee Region. More than simple consumption, it’s a social and cultural ritual where coffee becomes a symbol of gathering, memory, and belonging for the people of Manizales.
One of the best places to watch the —absolutely stunning— sunset is the Bretton restaurant in Manizales’ nightlife district. We also bring you here with the perfect excuse to enjoy one or several cocktails, which, we’re told, are among the best and feature Caldas-inspired notes: from the unmistakable Ron Viejo de Caldas to fruits and aromas drawn from the coffee landscape. Look for them in the Colombia, a Wild Journey spirits section—and hopefully you’ll feel right at home.
It’s also true that this is the land of aguardiente, a lightly anise-flavored spirit that goes down smoothly. In shops, cafés, roadside eateries, or even while waiting for lunch, a little güarito is always welcome. Cheers to good vibes!

La Red Turística de Pueblos Patrimonio de Colombia es un programa especial del Ministerio de Comercio, Industria y Turismo, ejecutado por FONTUR, que trabaja con 17 municipios de Colombia que poseen declaratoria de Bien de Interés Cultural (BIC) a nivel nacional para su valoración y proyección mediante el turismo, generando así más oportunidades de desarrollo y sostenibilidad en las comunidades.
La Medalla a la Maestría Artesanal es un galardón que Artesanías de Colombia entrega anualmente, con el cual se hace un reconocimiento a aquellos artesanos, empresas y comunidades artesanales que, contando con una trayectoria destacada, sobresalen a nivel nacional por su excelencia en el oficio así como por preservar el quehacer artesanal.

Es un signo distintivo que identifica productos reconocidos o famosos por tener una calidad o características específicas derivadas esencialmente del lugar de origen y la forma tradicional de extracción, elaboración y producción por parte de sus habitantes. La protección conferida sobre una Denominación de Origen implica que ninguna persona puede identificar con la denominación protegida productos iguales o similares a los amparados, cuando no provengan del verdadero lugar y no cumplan con las características o calidades que le han dado la reputación al producto reconocido. Las Denominaciones de Origen para productos artesanales colombianos que han sido protegidas por la Superintendencia de Industria y Comercio en nuestro país son actualmente 13.
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