“It takes away your sorrows, it takes away your pain, if you eat with joy, you’ll live much better,” sings Joe Quijano in his song Contento. And that’s exactly how we are on this route—contentos, joyful.
Rumor has it that Risaralda is full of places of great renown and tradition, flavors with powerful intensity that captivate you, and the unquestionable warmth of its people. That’s why we’ve come all the way here. In this department of Colombia’s Coffee Region, every ingredient tells a story, and every story speaks of the hands that prepare the food, starting with the famous bandeja paisa, found throughout the entire region, and moving on to dishes that highlight coffee and extend all the way to cocoa farms—an exquisite experience for the senses. 

The fiambre is a treasure of farmer and muleteer cuisine. Let’s pause to talk about it because of its tradition: it is, quite simply, the best packed lunch in the countryside. Wrapped in bijao or plantain leaves, it stays warm and preserves its ingredients for a long time. Rice, ripe plantain, meat, arepa, yucca, chicken, potato, vegetables, and egg are the ideal components if you’re going on a long journey. Be sure to carry one in your backpack to ease your hunger when the time comes. 

Also, keep Santa Rosa de Cabal’s chorizos on your radar—they’re a national delicacy. Let’s get ahead of ourselves: in Santa Rosa’s main park you’ll find the restaurant Raíces Santarrosanas, a cozy, traditional spot that prepares them with tender, lean pork and a light smoky touch. The casing is perfectly crispy, and they bring it to your table with house-made chili sauce, lime, and a refreshing panela lemonade.
¡A tip! Take a bite along with a piece of arepa while you admire the leafless tree inside the restaurant, which represents the birth of multiple branches—a metaphor for the other branches of this thriving business that proudly preserves tradition. 

Oh—and we can’t forget to mention that they also have a kids’ menu.

To celebrate the flavorful signature dishes of Marsella, La Estancia Restaurant welcomes you with open doors, ready to tempt you with its great seasoning and wide variety of menu options—so come with an empty stomach. The beauty of its balconies will take your breath away, and with a bandeja paisa or a succulent free-range hen sancocho on your table, you’ll acquire memories that last. They also invite you to explore other jewels of Marsella’s cuisine, such as the tamal, which reflects the farmer’s flavor and culinary identity. A full stomach makes for a happy heart! 

If you lean toward idyllic landscapes and a simple life, Estercita Viewpoint Restaurant is a delight for enjoying a good hen sancocho, taking in the open-air views, and feeling the warmth of the kitchen and its wood-fired stoves. This business was born over 50 years ago selling tinto (black coffee) along the road in the rural area of La Oriental, in the municipality of Marsella. 

If you reach Pereira around lunchtime, ask any taxi driver where Los Caldos de Palomo is—the king of fried foods. We guarantee they’ll take, and once there, don’t miss the meat cake, spleen soup, or the chorizo prepared by Fernando Gallón, who named his business after his own nickname. Order the mondongo soup—it’s a must-try. And for digestion, ask for a small cup of coffee straight from the pot. Keep in mind it’s open Tuesday through Saturday.

In Pereira, stop by the restaurant El Arriero Colombiano so, right from the start, you can feel the excitement of sipping a mazamorra—a corn-based drink served with milk and panela. And if you prefer, it’s also widely available from street vendors in the towns and rural villages across the department.

Don’t miss the Marsella Market either—this is where everything good and delicious to see and taste comes together. There, Willys jeeps strut about loaded with yucca, plantain, avocado, citrus fruits, and, of course, coffee. They carry people too—and are not just a mode of transport, but a vessel for the stories and loving gestures of an entire town, of country life, of life itself.

“I’ve traveled all over the world, 

and never, never could I find 

a guava that I liked enough 

to stop my wandering,” sings Rubén Blades, the poet of the people. 

Delighting in guava paste—bocadillo, as we call it—revives an explosion of flavors on the palate and provides instant energy. It’s part of the pantry of favorite foods among thousands of Colombians. To reach its perfect point, this fruit with its penetrating fragrance can be cooked whole or halved in syrup with cloves and sugar. You’ll find it in traditional shops across the department, especially in towns like Palestina, where guava cultivation is especially strong. Try it with cheese—it’s the perfect marriage. 

To keep the conversation going, don’t miss Lucerna Bakery in Pereira and order the traditional blackberry, coconut, or crispy chocolate cucurucho or cone—those are the most popular flavors. You can also order turrones, a semi-hard nougat candy that preserves the original European recipe using ingredients produced in the coffee region: peanuts, coffee, and sugar. The most exquisite, according to diners, are coconut and chocolate. And finally, if you’re craving something savory, the French fries with the house pink sauce are a simple and delicious option—perfect for sharing or as a side to any dish while you enjoy the homemade touch of Pereira’s cuisine. This place is a symbol of textures and flavors. Unmissable and irreplaceable! 

One last recommendation to keep your joy alive on this journey: stop by Delicias Doña María in Marsella and let yourself be tempted by the chócolo (sweet corn) arepas with cheese, and the chócolo cakes they’ve been making for 17 years. It’s located on the main street in La Rioja, and like everything here, it’s easy to find. There are always reasons not to wander distracted. So take the road toward the cemetery—and while you’re at it, visit it too: it’s an architectural treasure with a beautiful view over the city.

Marsella is picturesque from every angle and is recognized as part of the Coffee Cultural Landscape for its cobblestone streets and traditional architecture. It’s a destination that makes you fall in love—and as proof of that, we want you to visit the House of Culture, located at the corner of the main square and absolutely photogenic. There, you can ask for the famous chicha, a drink fit for the gods: it’s made artisanally with cooked corn sweetened with panela, then left to ferment for several days. The result is a slightly sweet and acidic beverage that reflects the town’s farmer essence. Its flavor and tradition have made it a living symbol of local heritage. 

We also recognize the cocoa from this region for its intense aroma and captivating flavor. It’s a cocoa rich in history, with a sweet, unique pulp and fruity and floral notes. With that in mind, we invite you to take a sensory route with the association ASONACA, made up of 16 women and 19 men, each with

a specific role: some harvest the cacao, others place it in wooden boxes to ferment for eight days. Then it goes to the dryer, and once dry, it’s roasted over firewood. The result is a deep understanding of the entire process and, at the end, a delicious cup of hot chocolate. 

One certainty and a little trick: it heightens the feeling of fullness—adding diced cheese is absolutely worth it.